Our time in Tokyo has come to an end and at just the right time. A heat advisory was put into place the same day we were leaving the city. We couldn’t have been more happy to be leaving the hustle and bustle of Tokyo behind for a quiet escape into the “Japanese Alps”.
We take a bus from Shibuya Station for a few hours into the mountains to land us at our first ryokan of the trip in Hirayu. After walking those many, many steps, we feel like we have deserved some R&R. The ryokan we stayed in featured outdoor hot spring baths, saunas, cold plunges, and indoor baths, our achy feet and legs greatly appreciated the various soaks.
Besides the baths, a major treat at ryokans are the multi-course dinners, typically featuring local cuisine. We’re staying within the Hida region, known for its beef. The deliciously tender and rich meat was cooked in the center of our dinner table over a charcoal stove. Not only was it dinner, but a divine experience as well. Alongside the beef, we had various other dishes such as some sushi, vegetables, and dessert. So delicious!
Our bellies full and our eyes heavy, Asa and I go back to our room to watch a video of our favorite YouTube channel (SMOSH) before bed. Technology can be great, usually we can cast a YouTube video from a phone to a TV. We’ve been in hotels before where, if you scan the QR code, this connects your phone to your room’s individual TV. We tried this a couple of times in the ryokan, I started to play video from my phone, but hmm… it never shows up on the TV. I guess it’s just not working.
Well let’s jump to the next morning. We wake up and walk to the ryokan’s public lounge to grab a morning cup of joe. And would you guess what was on the LARGE SCREEN television in the PUBLIC LOBBY of this ryokan… well it was the same exact video I was trying to play last night in our room. For a split second, I thought “Wow – what a coincidence!” But no, then reality hit me. This was THE VIDEO I was trying to play last night. And it’s been up on this TV through the entire night and now morning as other travelers are trying to enjoy the peace and restful environment of the ryokan. Meanwhile, there’s just this white American comedian’s face on the TV grinning from ear-to-ear.
My mouth drops, I race back to our room and disconnect from Wi-Fi, turn off the YouTube app, turn my phone on and off, I did everything to try and get the video down. When I walk back to the lounge, it’s still there! Thankfully, no one else (except Asa) is in the lounge at this point, and I just turn the TV off and immediately back on. THANK GOODNESS what now appears on the screen is a tranquil scene of a mountain stream. I’ve learned to never try to connect to a TV in a hotel / ryokan / inn / hostel again.
After that fun little start to the day, we enjoy another amazing meal at the ryokan. Our breakfast features one of the food highlights of our trip so far – hoba miso. We grilled miso, along with a few other ingredients, on a magnolia leaf over a small flame. The salty and sweet treat is served over rice, I wish I could find a way to recreate this one back home.
Shortly after breakfast, we pack up and walk back to the train station. From Hirayu, we move an hour west to Takayama for another stay at a different ryokan. This one is in town, rather than up in the mountains. Takayama is less touristy, despite being called the “little Kyoto”. We’re greeted warmly by the ryokan hosts and drop off our things in our room. It’s a bit rainy when we check in, while Sean opts for a nap, Asa and I finally have found the perfect time for ramen.
Although a short stay, Takayama left a big impression. It has the small little shopping streets and old wooden structures, similar to what you would see in Kyoto, but it’s far smaller and less crowded. Kind of the dream after just having been in Tokyo for a few days.
We sample some sake, find some matcha ice cream, and can’t help but pop into a few odds and ends shops that catch my eye – I’m grateful to have married a man with such patience. See some scenes of Takayama below.
After we finish exploring, we have yet ANOTHER multi-course meal waiting for us back at the ryokan. We freshen up and change into our yukatas, the traditional wear during a ryokan stay. They’re a cotton robe tied with an obi, or sash. You feel completely covered and wrapped up, but not constricted. Another thing I’m wondering if we can implement back home. Again, we have some scrumptious Hida beef, along with dishes like a citrus apéritif, beef and vegetable stew, mushroom rice – we cannot get enough of the mushrooms in Japan! I also cannot believe we keep finding more room in our stomachs to eat all this food.
We are not complaining though. Plus all these steps – we need the calories! It’s all about balance.
We call it an early night with another adventure waiting for us tomorrow – our first Shinkansen experience!
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